Nintendo Switch Charging Port Repair
No fix, no fee · 12-month warranty · Insured, tracked returns
Signs you need this repair
- The charger has to be held at an angle to work
- The cable feels loose or falls out of the port
- Bent, burnt or missing pins inside the port
- Charging starts and stops as the cable moves
- No charging at all, even on the official charger
- The console only charges in the dock, or only on the cable
The USB-C port takes a lot of wear: the cable goes in and out, the console gets dropped into the dock, and cables get yanked while it's in use. On every Switch model the port is soldered to the main board, so replacing it isn't a plug-in part. It's hot-air rework: I remove the damaged port, clean the pads and solder a replacement in place, then test charging and data before it goes back.
Before booking, rule out the simple things. Try another cable and the official charger, check the port for lint with a torch, and do a hard reset by holding POWER for about 12 seconds. This checklist for a Switch that isn't charging goes through each step.
A port isn't the only thing that stops a Switch charging or docking. Behind the port sit the M92T36 (USB-C power delivery), the BQ24193 (battery charging) and the PI3USB (which routes video to the dock). Third-party docks and cheap chargers are a well-known cause of M92T36 failure. A Switch that charges but shows nothing on the TV points more towards the PI3USB, the dock or the HDMI side than the port, so a new port on its own may not bring TV output back.
When your Switch arrives I check the port and the circuit behind it. If the fault is a chip rather than the port, I tell you and it moves to a board fault repair quote instead. Nothing goes ahead until you approve it. What you've already paid comes off that quote, and if you decide not to go ahead, I refund it less return postage.
The repair covers the original Switch, the 2019 revised model, the OLED and the Lite at the same price. Send the console only, with the game card and microSD card removed.